5. Kazimierz
For almost 500 years Kazimierz remained the most important center of Jewish culture — until it was destroyed by the Nazis. In 1941, its inhabitants were forcibly taken to the ghetto, and further blood-curdling events are known to every schoolboy. In Soviet times, they tried to avoid the orphaned suburb, but in the 1990s Poland officially gained independence, Steven Spielberg shot the iconic “Schindler’s List”, and Kazimierz, which became the filming location, was finally ranked among the monuments of history. The area came to life, filled with food, magnetized Bohemia, resurrected sights — from the synagogue of Remukh to the Jewish museum “Galicia”.
In the heart of Kazimierz, on the New Square, a flea market with antiques, books and street food such as hot sandwiches “casseroles” is open on weekends.
Every summer, a Festival of Jewish culture is held in the district with concerts, theatrical productions, films, lectures on the basics of Judaism. The main place of action is the former Cheder prayer house (ul. Jozefa, 36), which works the rest of the time as a coffee shop with aromatic Israeli coffee and meze snacks at 15-20 PLN per assorted.
4. Bunkier Sztuki Cafe-bar
Bunkier Sztuki Cafe-bar is part of the Museum of Modern Art with avant—garde expositions of the same name. Even the building itself, designed by Stefan Bojesky and Anthony Haidetsky in 1965, deserves attention. This is one of the rarest examples of brutalist architecture in Poland and the first modern building in the old part of Krakow.
Bunkier Sztuki is located in the Planty Park, so a walk in the fresh air is a mandatory part of the cultural program.
The cafe has a small lower hall with a nostalgic interior, a spacious upper one with simple wooden furniture and a fancy ceiling and an outdoor terrace overlooking the park. This is one of the few places in Krakow where you can taste tank beer — unpasteurized, unfiltered, not bottled and kegs, but delivered from breweries in special tanks. The taste is unique — light, fresh, without unnecessary impurities.
3. Zakrzowek Lagoon
Zakrzowek is a picturesque lagoon near the center, formed on the site of a limestone quarry. During the Second World War, Karol Jozef Wojtyla (he is the future Pope John Paul II) worked here in order to avoid being hijacked to Germany and feed himself and his father. And today Zakrzowek is a corner of serenity with turquoise water, lush vegetation and photogenic rocks.
In summer, people sunbathe here, walk, have a barbecue, but do not swim — it’s not safe. But a scuba diving school is open in the lagoon, because thanks to the sheer limestone walls and excellent visibility at depth, Zakrzowek is among the top best Polish dive sites. In general, the place looks like a hermit, detached from civilization, but it will not always be like this: soon, a modern recreation area will be equipped here, and wild primevalness will give way to comfort.
Sheer limestone walls, excellent visibility at depth and a picturesque landscape have turned Zakrzowek into one of the best dive sites in Poland.
2. Mercy Brown Bar
During prohibition, alcohol in the United States was sold only in underground speakeasy bars. Today you can drink everywhere, but secret places “for your own” are back in fashion — in Poland they are called “lost bars”. The first Krakow institution with a hidden sign was Mercy Brown (ul. Straszewskiego, 28), opened in 2015. It is based in the Smakolyki restaurant: informed lucky people pass through the wardrobe, corridor and stairs to the secluded courtyard of an apartment building.
The interior is solid vintage with soft lights, chandeliers, fringed lampshades, corduroy couches and golden curtains.
The menu is short and simple, but the drinks are more interesting: for example, gin is served with jasmine tea and elderberry liqueur in a beautiful porcelain cup. Entertainment includes burlesque shows in the spirit of the 1920s and spectacular cocktail mixing competitions. There are few available seats, so it’s better to book a table in advance. And then continue playing detective in the “lost bars” Sababa, Z Ust do Ust (ul. Estery, 18) or LostBar (ul. Szewska, 20).
1. Lody Ice Cream Parlor
And for dessert — the best ice cream in Krakow, which has been sold for 30 years in the Lody cafe (ul. Starowislna, 83). There is nowhere to sit inside, the queue stretches from the street, but what can you not do for the sake of the cherished cone with vanilla, chocolate, coffee, nuts, blueberries, strawberries or raspberries. The owner Stanislav Sargi and his assistants build hundreds of sweet designs from fresh and natural local ingredients every day. The perfect place to finish your Krakow tour!